Sarajevo is not exactly rich in “real” restaurants with traditional Bosnian cuisine, there are more classic “aščinica“ places that, admittedly, offer quality “basic” Bosnian food. However, if you want something more demanding, as well as an atmosphere where you can take someone out and treat them nicely, the choice usually comes down to “Inat kuća/The Spite House” and a few other places.
One of the restaurants that should be taken into account, especially if you have some more specific requirements (gluten-free, lactose-free, vegan, vegetarian dishes), is “Nanina Kuhinja/Grandma’s Kitchen” which is located along the outer wall of Brusa Bezistan, in Baščaršija, thus in a truly exclusive location.
Gastronomic Habits
Although the name of the restaurant might insinuate that you will be greeted at the door by a kind old woman in a clean apron with a wide smile, you won’t see her, but it is certain that you will feel the warmth of home during your stay in the restaurant.
The interior of “Grandma’s Kitchen” can be described as an incredibly successful maximalist combination of historical space, oriental style and antique details that gave it a soul – embroidery, copper, wood, crystal, a collection of antique clocks on the wall whose ticking calms you down, the smell of local spices… “Grandma’s Kitchen” does not impress only tourists who want to enrich their existence with knowledge of something new and different, this charming place is also a favorite among Sarajevans.
If, however, you are just discovering the culture and tradition of Sarajevo and Bosnia and Herzegovina as a guest from outside, there are few better places that would offer you an ambiance that would evoke this region where civilizations, East and West, have crossed paths for centuries, leaving behind a magnificent diversity that is reflected, among other things, in traditional dishes.
Whether you sit outside, which is ideal for observing and absorbing the vibrant atmosphere of the center of Baščaršija, or inside, you will have a perfect afternoon with a bowl of homemade soup or goulash, Sarajevo sahan, klepe, pie, okra, sarma…
The old Bosnian kingdom traded with the Mediterranean regions through the Republic of Dubrovnik, and thus enriched its gastronomic habits even then. With the arrival of the Ottoman Empire, and then the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, this region was marked by a special cuisine that continues to be cultivated in this restaurant.
Authentic smell of food
Enjoy gourmet dishes of traditional cuisine, authentic smell of food and flavours with homemade brandies and wines. The cherry on top is a homemade coffee, desserts like tufahija and baklava… or insanely delicious ice cream. Or do as we did, for dessert we visited the superb recently opened traditional Turkish pastry shop “Hadži Nijaz”, right across the street from the entrance to the Ferhadija Mosque.
Along with the abundance of Turkish teas, halva, kadaif and all other possible Turkish sweets in various variants, you also get real Turkish coffee, which, however, differs from the Bosnian one. But that also gives you the opportunity to make a comparison – how similar we are to that people and their customs, which we acquired through a few hundred years spent under the Ottoman Empire, and how different and specific we are.
In the ambience of a street that looks as if it was transferred from the center of Vienna. And that is something that makes Sarajevo unique – the feeling that in a few meters you can go from Vienna to Istanbul, and back.
Author: Tarik Dreca
